Well it’s been a few weeks since I returned from Tokyo and as some of you already know, from following me on Twitter, FaceBook, Pinterest and Instagram, I had a fabulous time.  From the time I landed at Narita airport, just as the clouds cleared for a picture perfect sunset, until I left, at the peak of cherry blossom season, every moment of every day was perfect.  Hubby greeted me at the airport with a kiss, an iced vanilla latte and Sakura (cherry blossom) macarons from Starbucks (yes Starbucks).  Of course I was beyond happy to see him and I was ecstatic to be back in Japan, the country where I grew up and spent most of my life.  I was home.

As hubby and I made our way back to our condo, in the Azabujuban area of Tokyo about an hour and a half from the airport, all I could think of was what I was going to eat that first night.  I actually had been thinking about that for about a month.  I’m serious.  I never sleep and hardly ever eat on the plane so by the time I landed I was exhausted and starving.  I had only eaten about twenty pistachios and half of a Zing Bar during the nine and a half hour flight so I actually felt a little faint but believe me I was about to make up for it big time.  In this post I am sharing my photos of the fabulous food and fun places I visited during this trip.  I will be splitting the trip in two posts, week one and week two so I don’t overwhelm you.  I will be traveling to Japan three times a year and I will be sharing my lovely life in Tokyo with all of you.  Enjoy!

First night back in our Tokyo home.  Too tired to go out after being up for 24 hours hubby ordered Wonton Ramen and Egg Rolls for me from a local Azabujuban Chinese restaurant, Tohryu.  They are a bit pricier than your regular greasy spoon Ramen joint but they use the very best ingredients, it’s never too salty and their food is perfection.  Some of the best egg rolls I’ve ever tasted.  So nice that they deliver to our condo.  I was sleepy but I still wanted good food.

My first full day was spent in Ginza with my hubby, my absolute favorite area of Tokyo.  First Brunch, French toast and an omelette, at Laduree in the Mitsukoshi Department Store.  After breakfast we made stops at the Lanvin, Hermes and Chanel boutiques.   Of course I had to buy a Hello Kitty box of macarons from Laduree and Mitarashi Dango and Ichigo Daifuku from Mitsukoshi’s Depachika to snack on later.

I returned to Ginza with my good friend Genia later in the week, one day in Ginza is never enough for me plus Genia and I love the same things.  We always have so much fun together.  We shopped at the newly opened Dover Street Market, filled with a variety of designer labels like Comme des Garçons.  Of course I ran straight to the Azzedine Alaia section first.  We also stopped at the Rose Bakery on the top floor for a refreshing glass of Ginger Mint Tea and I picked up a bag of their yummy Granola for hubby.

Later Genia and I enjoyed a fantastic meal at the beautiful Michelin two star Bulgari restaurant.  Everything was sublime.  Loved the beautiful dessert!

A trip to Tokyo would not be complete without a day walking around Meiji Shrine, Harajuku’s Takeshita Dori and Omotesando, the best shopping and people watching area I think.  We devoured a yummy Chocolate Almond Crepe as we walked down Takeshita Dori then made our way to our favorite Takoyaki stand on Cat Street, an adorable cobblestone street off of Omotesando.  A must visit when in Tokyo!

Cat Street is lined with adorable shops, restaurants and cafes.  They also have a Lanvin en Bleu shop, a more casual Lanvin line that is not carried in the US.  I ended up buying a very cute ribbon hair accessory there.  I had to get something right??

After walking around for two hours we stopped at Maisen for a late lunch.  Maisen is one of the most famous Tonkatsu restaurants in Japan. I ordered a Mix Fry of Hirekatsu, Ebi Fry and Creamy Crab Croquettes, super yummy.

Our Azabujuban neighborhood has some of the best restaurants, cafes and shops in Tokyo.  Edoya is a favorite Yoshoku restaurant and I cannot return to Tokyo without  having Hamburger Steak, Omurice and Hayashi Rice and Edoya makes the best.

We also discovered an adorable French bakery right around the corner with exquisite little sandwiches, pastries and great coffee.

Another favorite neighborhood spot hubby discovered is Azabu Ramen, just a three minute walk from our front door.  I enjoyed a steaming bowl of Shoyu Tonkotsu Ramen with Chashu pork and corn and Chashu Rice with Kimchi on the side.

Next week I will be writing about my trip to Kappabashi, the kitchen District, the gorgeous Cherry Blossoms and the beautiful cuisine at Michelin two star Kadowaki and Three Star Tsukiyabashi Jiro.

I know most of you might not know much about Japan or Tokyo but I’m sure you do know there is an abundance of delectable food in Japan.  From three star Michelin restaurants to the little food stalls under the train tracks that specialize in Japanese street food to the beautiful Depachika, or Department Store Gourmet food floors, Japan has it all.  Depachika are always located on the basement level of Department stores and they are a food lovers paradise.  They also can be a little overwhelming the first time you visit one.  There are always so many samples to try and if you’re not careful you can go a little crazy and buy way more than you planned to.  I have to confess, that’s exactly what happens to me every time I enter the Depachika.  It’s a dangerous place for me.

Two of my favorite Depachika are located in Mitsukoshi in Ginza and Isetan in Shinjuku.  You can find any type of ready-made, gourmet food or dessert imaginable in a Depachika but one of my favorite things to pick up are Croquettes or Korokke in Japanese.  Korokke are the Japanese version of the French Croquettes, crispy patties usually made out of mashed potatoes, ground meat and onions.  Both are breaded and deep-fried but the Japanese Korokke are breaded in Panko (Japanese bread crumbs) and served with Tonkatsu sauce or Soy Sauce and sometimes made into a sandwich (Korokke Sando), so yummy!  Here is my version of my favorite Depachika Korokke that was made with Kobe beef.  I use local, organic ground beef in this recipe which I think tastes just as good!  You can also leave the meat out and make them meatless.

Ingredients:  (This recipe makes about 7 large or 10 smaller Korokke)

6 medium sized Yukon Gold Potatoes, scrubbed with peel on
1/2 pound Lean Ground Beef
1 medium sized Yellow Onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of Garlic finely chopped
3 Tablespoons Sake or White Wine
3 Tablespoons Mirin
4 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1/2 teaspoon Sea Salt
1/2 teaspoon Freshly Ground Black Pepper

For frying you’ll need:

1/2 cup All Purpose Flour
3 Eggs, slightly beaten
2-3 Cups Panko
Canola or Vegetable oil for deep frying

Preparation:

Fill a large pot with cold water and add the potatoes.  Boil potatoes until tender and drain in a colander.  Peel the potatoes while they are still warm (I hold them with a clean dish towel and peel, the skin will easily peel off Yukon Gold’s).  Boiling the potatoes with the skin on will make them less mushy and give the Korokke a better texture.  Return the peeled potatoes to the pot and mash with a heavy wooden spoon or potato masher and set aside.

In a medium sized skillet or frying pan add the olive oil and place over medium high heat.  Sauté the onion until translucent.

Add the ground beef, salt and pepper and continue to cook until beef and onions are blended well and beef is almost fully cooked.  Add the Sake, Mirin and Soy Sauce to the meat and onion mixture and cook until all the liquid has been absorbed by the meat and onions and there is no liquid left in the pan.

Add the meat mixture to the mashed potatoes and mix until everything is blended well.  Please do this while everything is still warm.

Put the flour, eggs and Panko in three separate dishes lined up side by side.  Form the potato and meat mixture into patties with your hands.  Make sure you press firmly so the mixture hold together well.  They can be any size you wish but I like an oval shape about half the size of my palm.  Try not to make them too big or they’ll fall apart when you fry them.  Dip each patty in flour, egg and Panko, in that order, making sure to coat the Korokke completely in each step.

Fill a medium or large heavy bottom pot (I use my Le Creuset Dutch Oven) halfway with oil.  Deep fry until crisp and the Panko is a nice brown color.  The inside is already cooked so you only have to fry them a couple of minutes on each side.  I like to serve my Korokke with a side of shredded cabbage and rice but they’re great alone as a snack or appetizer.

I first tasted this dish at a favorite Yoshoku-ya in Yokohama, a little hole-in-the-wall place with three tables and a counter.  This description fits many of the restaurants hubby and I frequented in college, when we first started dating, and most of the Mom and Pop restaurants scattered across Japan.  These type of restaurants are usually where you will find the best food in my opinion.  The Master, or owner, of the restaurant always looked like he just got out of bed.  His hair was always a mess and his kitchen didn’t seem that clean to me.  He always wore a stained, white Chef’s coat which was kind of funny because he really didn’t look like a Chef to me.  The first time I stepped into his tiny place I have to be honest I was a little disgusted, and very surprised, that my friends spoke so highly about this man and his food.  I almost walked out without ordering that first time.  That would have been a big mistake.

One of the most popular dishes at this restaurant was the Pork Sauté.  Everyone raved about it, especially the sauce.  The Master would cut the pork chop to order from a huge slab right in front of you.  He would always cut it nice and thick.  His portions were considered generous compared to most Japanese restaurants so all of my fellow Americans loved to eat there.  After trying his Pork Sauté I realized why everyone adored it.  He seared the meat perfectly and the sauce was sublime.  I did not leave one drop of that sauce, soaking it up with the Japanese rice he served on the side.  We became regulars after that first meal and Master became a very close friend of ours.  He even made me chicken soup and brought it over when I was sick and couldn’t leave my apartment.  I guess you really can’t judge a book by it’s cover.  He did learn to clean up a little better though.

For this recipe I use beautiful Carlton Farms pork chops from my favorite Butcher, Rainshadow Meats in Seattle.  I used a one-inch thick pork chop with the bone-in but if you prefer, and if you’re short on time, you can use a thinner cut pork chop or even a chicken breast.  This sauce goes great with both.

Recipe:  Serves 2 large portions or 4 smaller ones

Ingredients:

4 large Pork Chops
Sea Salt
Freshly Ground Black Pepper
2 teaspoons Canola or Vegetable Oil

Sauce Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce
3 Tablespoons Ketchup
2 teaspoons Dijon Mustard
1 cup of good quality Red Wine

Liberally season both sides of each pork chop with salt and pepper.  Mix all of the sauce ingredients well in a small bowl and set aside.

Add the oil to a large skillet or fry pan and place over medium high high heat.  When the pan is hot add the pork chops, they should sizzle when placed in the pan.  Fry the first side for about 3-4 minutes depending on the thickness of your pork chops, you want a nice deep brown crust on the chops.  Flip over to the other side and continue to cook the chops for another 1-2 minutes.

If there is any excess fat from the pork chops you can blot the pan with a rolled up paper towel using tongs.

Lower the heat to medium and slowly add the sauce ingredients to the pork chops in the pan and continue to cook until reduced and thickened while turning the chops a few times so they’re well coated with the sauce.  Plate the chops with a little sauce poured over each one.  I love serving this with a nice vegetable and Japanese rice on the side.

I learned how to make Okonomiyaki from a sweet Japanese lady (Saito-san or Mama as we always called her) who had a little Okonomiyaki shop near Yokohama.  Hubby and I used to go there at least once a week when we first started dating and continued going there for years after we were married.  Unfortunately Mama closed her shop many years ago after it became too difficult for her to run the shop alone.  She was getting older and had no family to take over the restaurant for her after she retired.  It was very sad news for us but I am so grateful I was able to spend a day with her to learn how to make Osaka-style Okonomiyaki before she closed her shop.  She was trained by an Okonomiyaki Master in Osaka when she was younger then moved near Yokohama to open her shop.  To this day her Okonomiyaki is still one of the best I have ever tasted and the only way I make it at home.

There are so many variations of toppings and mix-ins for Okonomiyaki but this is my favorite and a very popular combination.  I like to top mine with paper thin slices of pork belly with scallops and shrimp in the batter.  Feel free to experiment with different toppings of your choice.  It takes a little time to make Okonomiyaki from scratch but once you try this recipe you will never want to make it any other way.

Makes enough for four or five medium sized Okonomiyaki 

Batter Ingredients:

1 cup cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup Dashi (preferably homemade, see my recipe below)
1/2 cup grated Nagaimo (A Japanese starchy yam)

Ingredients to add into the batter after it has rested:

4 large eggs, slightly beaten
3 scallions, chopped
3 cups of cabbage, chopped
2 pounds thinly sliced pork belly (about 4-5 slices for each Okonomiyaki)
6 sea scallops (chopped in 1/2 inch pieces)
6 large shrimp (chopped in 1/2 inch pieces)
1/4 cup Tenkasu (tempura crumbs, available at Asian Grocery stores)
Vegetable or Canola Oil for frying

For Serving:

Okonomiyaki Sauce (I like Otafuku Brand)
Kewpie Mayonnaise
Aonori (Dried Seaweed Powder)
Katsuobushi (dried shaved Bonito flakes)
Beni Shoga (Japanese red pickled Ginger)

Tools you’ll need:

Hot plate or large nonstick frying with a lid
2 small spatulas for flipping the Okonomiyaki

Preparation:

Add the baking powder to the flour and mix lightly.  Add the Dashi and mix well.  Add the Nagaimo into the batter and stir until all the ingredients are well combined (It will be sticky).  Put the batter in the refrigerator to rest for 30 minutes.  After taking the batter out of the refrigerator add in the scallops, shrimp, cabbage, scallions and eggs and lightly mix until all ingredients are incorporated into the batter.

On a preheated hot plate or frying fan, lightly greased with oil and over medium high heat, ladle the batter to form a pancake.  Lay five slices of pork belly on top.  Cover for about 5-7 minutes.

Uncover and, with a spatula in each hand, carefully flip the Okonomiyaki over to the other side.  Continue to cook on the pork belly side until pork is fully cooked and crispy, about 5-7 minutes.

Flip over one more time so the pork belly side ends up on top.  Turn heat off and let sit for 2-3 minutes.  The inside should be soft and creamy but completely cooked through.

To serve brush each Okonomiyaki with the Sauce, drizzle a little mayonnaise then sprinkle with the Aonori and Katsuobushi.  I like to serve the Beni Shoga on top or on the side.

Quick Dashi Recipe:

6 Cups Water
1 5-6 inch piece of Kombu (dried kelp)
1 large handful (about 2 cups) Katsuobushi (Dried Shaved Bonito Flakes)

1.  Combine the Kombu and water in a pot over medium-low heat.  The water should be approaching a boil after about 20 minutes (adjust the heat if the water looks like it’s coming to a boil too soon or too slowly).  Once the water comes to a boil, immediately turn off heat and remove the Kombu.

2.  Add the dried bonito flakes all at once.  Wait until they absorb the water and sink to the bottom of the pot, about 20-30 minutes.

3. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve (You can also line a regular strainer with two layers of cheesecloth or paper towels).  Let strain for a couple of minutes, do not squeeze the excess liquid from the bonito flakes, this will make the Dashi cloudy and bitter.

Note:  Dashi is best used the same day but it may be kept in the refrigerator for up to three days and can be frozen for up to two months.